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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.